After the moldy jam bucket scandal at Sqirl was publicized, I recreated their infamous ricotta toast. The main reason was that I wanted to eat some brioche and practice my bread-baking. However, I also thought it would be a good opportunity to write a piece about the damage Sqirl has caused to the food industry and its patrons.

Sqirl's owner, Jessica Koslow, is an example of the flawed and corrupt businesses and "chefs" in the food industry. Under her leadership, her business committed instances of health and food safety violations, appropriation, gentrification, xenophobic/racist sentiments, and lack of recognition for her other workers/chefs.

Pictured jam flavors: honey-plum jam, ginger-orange marmalade, and cinnamon apple butter. All homemade, hold the mold.

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Recipe for Brioche Loaf*

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• 375 g bread flour

• 139 g milk, cold

• 83 g egg

• 5.5 g dry yeast or 12 g fresh yeast

• 45 g sugar

• 8 g kosher salt

• 120 g unsalted butter, cold

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1. In a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook, mix together the flour, milk, egg, yeast, sugar, and salt on low speed for 4 minutes.

2. Increase speed to medium and mix for another 4 minutes, or until you can stretch a "windowpane" with a piece of the dough.

3. Add the butter and continue to mix until fully incorporated

   • This dough can also be made by hand. Just knead together the ingredients until the windowpane test is achieved.

4. Place the dough in a lightly greased bowl. Cover and let rise until doubled in size, about 1 hour.

5. Punch dough down to deflate the gases. Roll out to an oval, then fold the dough down and shape into about a 9-inch oblong.

6. Place dough seam-side-down in a greased 9x4x4-inch bread pan. Cover and rise until about doubled in size, about 1 hour (it should have a mushroom top). The dough is ready when you can gently press it and it springs back about halfway.

7. Bake in a preheated 350°F oven for 35-40 minutes, or until internal temperature reaches 190°F.

8. Remove from baking pan and let cool completely on a wire rack.

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Toast Assembly
 

• 1 thick slice brioche (or sourdough works as well)

• Unsalted butter, softened

• Equal parts drained ricotta and heavy whipping cream

• Jam (homemade or store-bought)

  • For homemade jam, I cook down fruit with some sugar until thickened. For apple butter, blend once thickened and cooled, then continue to cook down to desired thickness.

 

1. Whip heavy cream until medium peaks, then fold in the drained ricotta. Set aside.

2. Spread some butter on both sides of the slice of bread. Cook in a skillet until each side is golden brown.

3. Let toast cool for a minute. Spread a large amount of the ricotta cream on the toast, creating a divet in the center.

4. Add the jam in the center divet. Serve.

 

 

 

*This brioche recipe also makes great dinner rolls. Divide finished dough into 12 pieces (or 24 mini), then roll into balls. Place into a 9x13-inch greased baking pan. The arrangement should be 3x4 rolls or 4x6 mini rolls. Proof until dough bounces back halfway when pressed. Brush tops gently with egg wash, then add sea salt flakes on top. Bake at 350°F for 20-25 minutes, or until internal temperature reaches 190°F.